| Hello, I have an '86 Cannondale road bike that I am trying to modernize. I plan on updating the wheels for sure. The bike has the freewheel hub setup. Does anybody know if this era bike will accomodate the cassette style freehub wheels that are used now? I'm not sure if the dropout will accomodate or not. I measured the inside space between the dropouts and that's 5"(127mm?), the outide measurement is 5.5" (139mm?). I am debating this change to the newer stlye hubs/cassette system or possibly rebuilding my existing wheels with new rims. Also, does anybody know if Cannondale used essentially the same grade of aluminum in '86 on all their road bikes. Mine never came with any stickers that way, and the bike itself is kind of non descript with only a headtube sticker and toptube sticker, really nothing else. The s/n is 60061986335. I deciphered the date code part,and frame size, but I doesn't tell me anything about the product itself. I bought it new in 87, and I believe it's a lower end model as it has Suntour Cyclone components. Anyways, if anybody has any information on the above ?'s, please advise. Thanks, Dave|
| You'll be limited to 6 and 7 speed freewheels with this frame. You can't spead it. Cannondale used the same aluminum in all their frames in those days. They only changed the component specs.|
Frankly, a Suntour group on this frame is just about as good as it gets from that period. Put some barcon shifters on it and pretend it's Ergo shifting. New rims are always good. Maybe some new Mathauser pads?. I rode an early 90's C-dale CAD2 frame with a similar setup. Fast, nimble, sweet.
| Thanks for the reply on the Cannodale frame. Is it possible to safely use a wheel with an O.L.D of 130 mm on these frames. I think the dropout width is 127mm, and I am able to spread it with to about 130mm or more by hand. I know with aluminum you can't really "set" them as with steel, but would it work only going with a 4 or 5mm spread to accomodate. It seems to work, just wondering if doing this has been known to induce cracking etc. Please advise. Thanks|
| I put a 7-speed rear on my Cannondale. It fit in there with no problems - and the smallest cog didn't rub the frame. However, with the chain - it's so clost when on the smallest cog - I can't tell for sure if it's rubbing or not. I may have to put just a small amount of space there.....or I may just put a 6-speed on it. |
Spreading the rear of the C-dale is just asking for trouble. It may seem possible and convenient to wedge in a 130 mm hub but you will drastically shorten the lifespan of the frame. Yes, you can spread it by hand but the aluminum will be constantly stressed and it will fatigue and fail. Look it up on Google.
You can easily get a 7 speed hub/freewheel in a 126 mm size. Take the time and do it right. If you want a more modern drivetrain, get a newer, (or steel) frame.
| Thanks for all the replies. I think am going to just update my hubset with some better quality 126mm freewheel rear hubs and rims. I haven't been into biking for while and thought all the newer stuff would be the ticket, but I am finding that the older stuff is still good quality. I don't want to take the chance of spreading the frame, and I never really needed more than a 6 speed freewheel anyways. Thanks again. - Dave|
| Well, I've run into another issue building up this mid-80's Cannondale frame: Now, it's the shifters. It has bosses for down-tube shifters - but I can't seem to scrape up any shifters that will work with it. All of the mid-80's shifters I have - the ones made for those frame bosses - will work on just about everthing I have - except this Cannondale. If anyone knows of what shifters were original - and what will work - let me know.|
Also, another issue I have run into with this frame: I didn't pay that close of attention....didn't really get into too much detail.....but the frame was supposed to be 61 cm. Well, that's a little tall for me. But, I do have a Raleigh Technium in that size - and I ride it without any problem....so I thought this one would work also. So, last night - I got out a tape and actually measured it. I could only get 61 cm measuring from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. If I measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat post - I got 67 cm. Way, way too tall for me!!! Now, it looks like I will either build it up and try to sell it - then find another Cannondale bike, or frame, and start over. Who knows: maybe someone out there has a Cannondale frame that is too small for them - and would like to trade.
| There is a guy in my neighborhood who collects / restores bikes that I visit when I need another bike or part. He has a "Speedway" or "Speedway 8" MX-5 that appears to be a very high quality lugged frame, with bar-end shifters and quailty components. I can find nothing about it online. Anyone heard of it before? It's a ten speed with 27" wheels that was made in Louisville, Ky. No other information on it... (I know, I should have taken a picture).|
| Made in Louisville ?! That's different. Take some photos and post them. Maybe someone will recognize something.|
| I found this old bike and am restoring it but i cant figure out what kind of bike this is all i have is the serial number. The number is S70906136. Any help in what this bike is would be great. Trying to figure out how to remove the pedal arms.|
| No one can help you with only a serial number - even when you know the brand they're notoriously unhelpful. Get a book ("Glenn's" for example) from the library on bike repair before you try to do anything to "restore" it. You're in over your head.|
| Companies go out of business or are sold or relocated or there are fires, floods or whatever. Paper information is thrown out and so you'd have to be able to time travel and make long dead executives give you total access to the company and for that you would alse need to carry truth serum with you.|
Funny too. In this we have a lot of: "new to the bike restoration scene" folks come through the front door with this "serial number angle" routine.
Yes, we have been driven mad with trying to decipher serial numbers with almost all of the brands.
| A serial number is intended to aid you in recovering your bike back from theft. |
except............many bikes never had them from new at the factory.
| I have a question about Tange tubing. I have seen Tange 5, Tange 2, Tange Infinity, .....how is the quality of a frame set identified? Is Tange 1 better than Tange 2? Is Tange 2 better than Tange Infinity? For example, I have 2 frame sets: One is Tange Infinity - and the other is Tange 2. Which is the better frame material?|
| 1 is better than 2 is better than 5 etc. I think Tange Prestige was equivalent to 1. Tange Infinity was middle of the pack. Your Tange 2 frame set will be lighter and therefore better.|
Continuing with japanese steels...Champion tubes were similarly named...1 is best followed by 2.
Ishwata named their tubes after actual weight/volume. 019, 022, 024 were the better tubesets.
| I didn't know about the Infinity, etc. I had read somewhere that 1 was better than 2, etc. etc. Also, I didn't realize about the 019, 022, 024 tubing. I remember recently passing up a bike with an 024 frame....didn't think it was much - thought it was just regular high tensile steel....|
| I suspect 024 was good butted steel because 022 was seriously light, high-end butted chromoly. Jump if you get a chance to buy a frameset made of this. I've never actually seen an 019 bike.|
| I have a very nice bike with Ishiwata 022 tubing!|
I have one bike with Quadruple-butted tubing.
Now, I noticed one bike I have ....and the frame sticker has something like 012 on it. Now, I'm pretty certain this can't be the tubing like 024, 022, 019, and then 012......I know this can't be the case - because the frame has stamped dropouts....and it has mid-to-low end components.....now, closer to low end...heck, it even has steel handlebars.....and it's not all that light.