|This Wastyn Special will be going to auction for 10 days tonight on Ebay.|
| So why was the auction ended early?Personally after looking at the additional pictures before the auction was ended I have doubts about it being a wastyn built bike.|
| I decided to remove this bike from auction for the simple reason that I am not ready to part with it yet. The man that gave me the bike passed away recently and I just can not part with it. As for it not being a Wastyn, Wastyn Cycles believes that it was built by Emil Wastyn. Scott Wastyn derived this from the same pictures used in the listing. So I will go with their assesment as to what it is. Sorry for tease. I in know way wanted to rile anyone. |
| I was making a fixed gear conversion - but ran into a little difficulty: I was using an older rear wheel with a free-hub hub....and of course, I have to re-space the axle to get the track cog more to the right for proper chain alignment. After doing that - I then want to re-dish the wheel - because it won't be centered inside the seat and chain stays. OK, so I re-dish the wheel......I have it centered on the hub body....and it's centered inside the seat and chain stays. OK, great! NOT! Now I have the spokes sticking up through the nipples inside the rim. They are sticking through too far - and they would surely puncture the tube through the rim tape. I need shorter spokes on that side. It seems I have re-dished some wheels - and have not run into that problem. Is this a common problem? Does every wheel you re-dish run into this situation?|
| If I'm not mistaken, you don't need it centered on the hub body at all, just the frame. The drive side spokes may indeed need to be shorter depending on the length of the originals and the section of the rim. Multi-speed rear wheels are built with differing lengths of spokes on the two sides to allow for dish.|
| Let me revise that...it's not actually the frame but the rims which must be centered between the outside contact points of the axles' cone/washer/locknuts. This requires a dishing tool. If you're going to build and true wheels you should invest in one. When done correctly the wheel will be centered in the frame IF the frame is straight and true. If it doesn't line up then your frame is misaligned. The crucial first step for a fixed wheel is spacing the hub on the axle so that your chainline is near spot on. Then you can build the wheel correctly.|
| Yes, that's it.....I can get the cog over to the right for proper chain alignment.....but then the rim is too far to one side - so to get the rim centered - I have to change the dish.....this works fine - except that the spokes are too long - and won't accomodate re-dishing. I would either have to get shorter spokes for the one side - or use a different wheel, etc. |
| I am looking for a Masi Gran Criterium or 3V that's around 63cm in size. I am looking at this as a project bike so some mismatched parts, non-original paint, or small scraps and scratches are fine. A frame and fork would be fine as would a complete bike. Thanks.|
| I tried to find some information on Shimano 333 hubs. However, every reference I could find has to do with 3-speed internally geared hubs (like the Sturmey Archer). But, these are old 10-speed free-hub hubs. |
One of my projects from a few years back was a Campania (Japanese....where the name brand looks like "Campagnolo"). It had horizontal dropouts, no der. hanger, no braze-ons....so I was going to convert it to fixed-gear. I salvaged what I could of it - as my storage for these old bikes has been very crappy. Anyway, I completed the fixie conversion.
I did notice the hubs were Shimano 333. Those were the first ones I had seen. The rims are alloy, the hubs are alloy, with quick release. Anyone ever seen these hubs?
| I have a pair of these. They're Campy knock-offs that don't look quite so good. I wonder if Shimano used 333 as a trademark for a while; I think I've seen it on a bunch of different parts. I think the hubs date from before Shimano was pushing whole component groups.|
| I've seen '333' on many Shimano items. They used that on 3 speed hubs, steel and alloy road hubs and I've even seen it on shifters and I seem to remember it on a derailleur way back when. (I'd have to do some digging in the used derailleur barrel out back). |
I had or may still have a set of alloy Shimano '333' high flange quick release hubs, I've also seen bikes with those which used only a front QR and a nutted hub in the rear, as well as two nutted '333' hubs with those large wing nuts.
The '333' designation was early, pre-1975.
I got the impression that they used that as a level designation just like the newer '600' or '105' components. Although '333' sort of meant low end, or close to it.
They were decent quality for the money, but nothing to right home about. I would guess that the hubs were well under $10 new as replacements They don't look any different than the later high flange hubs to me. I've also seen steel '333' hubs too, they were common on a lot of bikes back then.
I believe Shimano started in the US around 1965-66, so they could have been around for a while as well.
| Thanks for the information. I didn't suspect my Shimano 333 hubs were anything valuable, or high-end - considering the rest of the bike and its components. But, it was a model I had never seen before. This old bike stuff is really interesting. |
Another interesting component I have: An old, kind of low-end looking AMF 10-speed - but it has like a first generation Dura-Ace brakes
I thought I was bad.....your "barrel" of used deraillers....I have a couple big boxes of used ders....and I was thinking about going through them and separating them out by quality and condition......
| Are those Centerpull or sidepull? Tourney Branded, 3.3.3. or no brand at all? |
I have a pair of old Center pull Dura-Ace calipers somewhere around here, as well as a set of early side pulls. I don't see any difference in those early components vs. the later versions with various names. I have an old Columbia that has a pair of early Shimano Tourney side pull calipers from the very early 70's. They are identical to the Dura-Ace versions that I saw, even down to their weight. Sometimes the difference in components was no more than lighter hardware, but in this case it's just the name.
I have big barrels of a lot of parts, it started with cardboard boxes, then milk crates, then plastic barrels. The hubs are still in milk crates but only due to weight. Its the result of doing this as a hobby for many years and saving everything. I've also bought out several old bike shops over the years.
| The old first generation Dura-Ace brake calipers are center pull.....|
I started collecting stuff like maybe about 7 years ago. I got all of it a bike-at-a-time...however, for the past 2-3 years, there haven't been any old bikes to find. I haven't bought out any old shops....or come upon someone else's old collections. ....so, for right now, what I have is what I have......maybe a couple hundred deraillers at most.....and the same goes for most other components. No, probably not but about half that.
| I have a 10-speed Garelli Lightweight Bicycle - probably from the 1980's - I cannot find any information about when Garelli made bicycles, except for the fact that they make motorcycles now. Does anybody know anything about Garelli Bicycles?|