| Made in Japan.|
can't seem to find any info on this company
looks almost like a Huret Svelto Plus, except the derailleur face has a DNB script and is painted red.
| Based on info at Classic Rendezvous, it must be a Gran Sport.|
| I have an aluminum Alan frame and fork, which is all in great condition except for the seat cluster, which has cracked lengthwise along the top. There is no damage to this frame otherwise; I am assuming the metal in the seat cluster has fatigued.|
Looking for another frame in discardable condition that has the seat cluster in good condition so as to swap it over.
As this is of no use to me in its current condition, I would consider selling the frame and fork to another owner with similar aspirations. Better to have one bike in ridable condition than two entirely out of use. Will consider selling to others as well.
Also welcome is guidance on performing this bonded frame rebuild, including de-bonding and re-bonding, and bond selection and preparation.
| I have an 83/84 Bianchi - which I built up with a late 80's / early 90's Shimano 105 group (The 105 group was donated from another bike). When I put the components on the Bianchi frame - the pedals would not come off (Shimano 105 pedals with straps). Recently, I have been making a transition to clipless pedals. My Bianch is one bike I would like to ride clipless. I did manage to get the left pedal off. But I can't get the drive-side pedal to budge. It's not corroded or anything - just really tight. |
It does have a hex hole on the inside of the spindle for an allen wrench......maybe I could use the 15mm wrench in combination with the allen wrench - and maybe get it to come loose.
I've had some really tough ones before......but this one is the worst so far. If anyone has some ideas - please let me know.
| If you can disassemble the pedal and remove the cage from the spindle, you can hoist the bike horizontally and clamp the pedal flats in a sturdy bench vice. You should have more than enough leverage if the bench is secure. If the pedal won't come apart you can still try this method by shimming the flats out or sacrificing the pedals and crushing the bejesus out of them.|
| You might try heat. I don't know if a propane torch would discolor the aluminum crankarm, but the aluminum will expand faster than the steel pedal spindle and might allow you to loosen it. You might also put the crankarm and pedal in the oven. I doubt that 300 deg or so would cause annealing/softening of the forged aluminum. (Any metallurgists out there?)|
| I got the stuck pedal free! I thought I would give one more try before I tried disassembling the pedal and putting it in a vise.....I bought new wrench (the old one was a little beat-up). I supported the crank with a block of wood....put the wrench in place.....gave it a good whack with a heavy rubber mallet - and it broke free. |
|I am restoring/rebuilding a 1963+/- Legnano which is missing the seat post bolt which fits forward of the seat tube, and below the top tube. Do you know how to make one if you don't know where I can get one?|
| that is what it looks like, and if you make one, can you make one for me too....|
| I have this bolt and bike and am wondering if anyone can comment on what size seatpost this frame takes???|
| hi there i have the seat bolt ur asking for how many do you want its the older version legnano race bike its from around 1958 pls don t hesitate to contact me|