If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
MISC: Bridgestone XO
posted by: John La Fargue
on 2/27/2001 at 10:33:29 AM
| One more question. What was the largest size frame Bridgestone made in XO's and MB's. |
RE:MISC: Bridgestone XO
posted by mike on 3/4/2001 at 11:27:46 AM
| Can't speak for other years, but I have a 1983 MB2 that is 21.5" c/t. That was as big as they came back then.|
MISC: Ritchey Timber Comp
posted by: John LaFargue
on 2/27/2001 at 1:07:51 AM
| Anybody have info on Timber Comps? I was told by Ritchey it was an early eighties line. What were/are they worth? |
FOR SALE: NIGHT RIDING
posted by: JOEL
on 2/23/2001 at 9:19:02 AM
| This is kind of 'new school' I guess but I was wondering if anyone else out there is into night riding. What a blast. I use the cheapest light that Performance makes (single beam, helmet mount) and it's good for about 2 hours. (spare batteries and parts to build your own are avalable at any electronics shop cheap). Lately I've been riding without it when the moon is bright. It is a good way to improve technical skills. Last week, an owl flew along the trail about 5 feet ahead of me. I could feel the wind off his wings. cool... |
posted by Brasil on 2/23/2001 at 12:11:48 PM
| I love riding at night. Been doing so since we were kids, sometimes on the road, sometimes off. There's something enchanting about how quiet it is, the light on the trail or road, the sound of your tires and chain working away. I love it, no cars no people...|
posted by Ray on 2/26/2001 at 8:59:16 AM
| Watch out when night riding. I was going down a trail about 2 years ago alone, at night with a light and still did not see the 1 foot high stump in the road because of fall coverage and it blended in so well with the background. Long story short, I did an endo and was happy not to break any bones because it would have been a while till someone found me. I was banged up pretty well and my bike wheel was not to great but I manged to make it back home. The ride home seemed a lot longer than it took me to get there in the first place.|
posted by JOEL on 3/1/2001 at 1:17:27 PM
| Yep...I did a similar crash using a borrowed Nightrider mounted on the handlebar (instead of the helmet where it belongs). I find that a rider behind me will cast shadows and throw off my depth perception too. But generally, I can see the trail really well at night, and the light beam fources me to focus on a small area in front of the bike where I SHOULD be looking.|
RE:FOR SALE: NIGHT RIDING
posted by Eric on 4/16/2001 at 8:16:20 AM
| Night riding rocks! You definitely need both helmet and handlebar lights to do it though. Two different shadow andgles and beam patterns are more important than anyone realizes until they get both lights. I usually don't have time to ride during the day from the end of september until about the end of april and hae decided that 2 lights on the bars and 2 lights on my head are critical. Each should have a low wattage narrow beam to conserve battery power when you're riding slower, and a high wide and a high narrow for cruising or techy stuff. Easy to operate switches are an absolute must too.|
RE:RE:FOR SALE: NIGHT RIDING
posted by R.M. Richardson on 5/21/2001 at 6:55:35 PM
| Night riding rules. The best thing ever invented for night riding is the Ray-o-vac Floating Lantern. For less than $4.00 you get an excellent bulb, a real click-switch, the best reflector ever, PLUS a 6-volt lantern battery. The threaded base attaches to a reflector mount with 8-32 screws. The battery goes in a neoprene hugger, then in bottle cage. Switch hangs from wiring, vibration-free. Second system goes on helmet, battery in bottle waist pack. The Ray-o-vac reflector, don't laugh, is the BEST for night cycling. The beam pattern is perfect. The batteries last a long time and every time you buy one you get the whole system. You will soon have a collection of spare bulbs, reflectors, and switches. This system puts many big-$$ systems to shame and the whole works costs less than your know-it-all buddy's bulb. More details, maybe photos, if interested.|
posted by tom on 8/10/2001 at 9:22:08 PM
| Night riding rocks! anything after midnight. I have found that|
it is perfect to have 2 lights one on the bar and one on the helmet
because in the summertime the reflection off the dust can get knarly
for a helmet lamp. The most bitchin' light? night rider HID Storm
for the helmet, 10 watts lighting equivalent of 40 watt halogen, 4 hour burn time
5 hour recharge time, paired with a dual beam on the bar. This will give you around
6 or longer hours of night riding orgasmica!
MISC: Univega Mountain Bike
posted by: Jericho
on 2/22/2001 at 10:00:23 PM
| I have an old 1986 Univega Range Rover mountain bike in dang fine shape with all original everything. I am seriously doubting it has any monetary value but I was wondering if there was any sort of historical value or interesting-ness to it? Is there any sort of Univega discussion/owners page somewhere? Anyone know? Thanks, Jericho |
Univega Mountain Bike
posted by John E on 2/23/2001 at 6:19:13 AM
| Please list the "original everything" component groups and briefly describe the frame geometry. Evolutionary dead ends, such as under chainstay brakes, motorcycle-style brake levers, and cycloidal chainrings were common on mountain bikes of the mid-to-late 1980s. Many of the frames looked like road bike frames with increased tyre clearance and perhaps slightly oversized (for the era) frame tubes.|
RE:MISC: Univega Mountain Bike
posted by Tony on 3/1/2001 at 7:48:40 PM
| Well, heres some personal history about mine. I had the same bike I bought used. I did my first race on it in 90 and I was the only one there with a Univega. Univega was big on value at reasonable prices. Things like the full chromo frame and fork were value, things like the exage 200 group were reasonable. I had lots of fun on that bike and sold it for $50 to move up to a 89 Mongoose Comp. At this point I suspect that it is worth more in memories than money.|
WANTED: Hutch or Sun tour bear trap pedals
posted by: Jonathan Kaplan
on 2/20/2001 at 8:13:42 PM
| Looking for Sun Tour or Hutch bear trap pedals in 9/16" in new or near new condition. |
FOR SALE: Cook Bros. MTBs
posted by: GS
on 2/19/2001 at 5:01:03 PM
| Anybody have any info about early Cook Bros. mountain|
bikes? I have a couple of very early Cook cruisers.
(Actually one is serial #01)
Another has an internal cable guide, rack mounts, and
a bottle mount. This has to be from about 1979-82.
Would like to talk with any other Cook collectors.
Always interested in buying Cook Bros. bikes, parts,
STUPID BIKE TRICKS: Only achievement of the weekend
posted by: Oscar
on 2/18/2001 at 4:20:33 PM
| Unless anyone else can claim it, I've got the first endo of the year. I thought the creeklet was frozen and I thought that brute speed would get me through it. Wrong. The front wheel planted into the creeklet, and I went over the handlebars and landed forearm first onto the hard ground. It was quite an ugly maneuver, really, since my left foot never released from the toe clip. Nothing more than a bruise, and no witness, and no harm to the bike.|
over the bars
posted by John E on 2/18/2001 at 7:56:16 PM
| I am relieved that you are OK, Oscar. That must have been pretty scary. Sounds as good as the time I dumped the Peugeot U0-8 on a submerged 2x4, while crossing a stream that was flooding the road.|
RE:over the bars
posted by Oscar on 2/19/2001 at 11:07:23 AM
| It's a free bone density test. Someday, though, I'm going to be too old to take these falls.|
RE:RE:over the bars
posted by Vin on 2/19/2001 at 11:21:12 AM
| My first endo of the year was January 2nd. I had just gotten the motor of an old VeloSolex running (There's probably a picture of one in the picture database - it's a factory built bicycle with a 40-something cc motor on the front wheel) and I took it out on the road behind the shop on packed snow. |
It went great going straight, but the second I let up on the throttle the engine died and the front wheel locked up. Tucked the whole front end under in a split second.
MISC: Sintesi Crested Butte
posted by: JimW.
on 2/7/2001 at 7:23:23 AM
| I picked this bike up at a yard sale in Santa Monica, a couple of years ago for $20. I was planning to strip the parts and trash the frame, but I thought I should check on it here first. High on the seat tube is a sticker: TANGE |
Cr-Mo MTB. It has all Shimano, including Biopace drive and a rear brake mounted beneath the chainstays. Any reason I shouldn't strip/trash it?
RE:MISC: Sintesi Crested Butte
posted by dickshooter on 2/9/2001 at 10:52:36 AM
| Sintesi is a high-end Italian-made bike. They made (still make?) both road and mountain bikes. I'd clean it up and keep it. Definitely will be a collector bike someday, if not one already. Don't strip and trash it.|
made in Japan or Italy
posted by John E on 2/11/2001 at 6:23:34 PM
| Is the bottom bracket English- or Italian-threaded? Bianchi and other European manufacturers have had some of their low- and mid-grade frames built in the Far East. Tange, a large reputable Japanese manufacturer, supplies bicycle tubes which span a broad price/qualty spectrum. Tange "Prestige" and "Prestige II" were world-class in their day.|
RE:made in Japan or Italy
posted by JimW. on 2/12/2001 at 11:39:59 PM
| It's definitely Japanese. I guess it's not taking up that much space. I'll keep it intact until I really need the components.|
vintage = 1986-88
posted by John E on 2/14/2001 at 12:39:08 PM
| I missed your reference to the under-chainstays brake the first time I read your post. This stupid design, borrowed from the old English rod-brake roadsters, lived a blessedly short life of 2 or 3 production years. Your brake mounting bosses are compatible only with U-brakes and Rollercams, and this probably restricts the value of your frame. |
RE:vintage = 1986-88
posted by JimW. on 2/16/2001 at 7:13:16 AM
| I'd seen another post recently to do with this braking scheme. Why exactly, is it undesirable? Is it that it doesn't work as well? Or is it just due to incompatibility|
with other brakes? I would imagine it would pick up a lot
of mud down there; is that the bad aspect?
The Biopace drivetrain makes two "never-wozzer" features of this bike. Maybe if it had a couple more examples of dead-end techno, it would be a real classic. Thanks for the input, all.
posted by John E on 2/18/2001 at 12:31:15 PM
| Actually, my under-chainstay Shimano U-brake works well enough, as does my front SunTour Roller-Cam, but it often gets wet and/or filthy, and it is awkward and messy to repair or adjust it with the chain in place. Also, I have to fight the "out of sight ... out of mind" instinct against inspecting for cable or brake pad wear. With a 24T chainring, the chain barely clears the face of the U-brake, precluding a "microdrive" crank upgrade with a typical 20 or 22T ring. Also, an under-stay brake could only make a bad case of "chain suck" even worse.|
posted by: Oscar
on 2/2/2001 at 7:42:47 PM
| When did Schwinn stop making mtb's under the Paramount name? I saw an interesting frame marked Paramount POG for sale. |
date code on head tube badge
posted by John E on 2/4/2001 at 7:18:00 PM
| Howdy, Oscar! Can you conveniently get the 4-digit date code from that frame's Schwinn head badge? (The last digit is the last digit of the year. The first three digits are the day of the year.) Also, check the location (chainstay or seat stay) and position (above or below the rim) of the rear brake mounting bosses. As far as I know, when Schwinn was producing KOM-10s in the late 1980s in the then-common Paramount red-white-blue color scheme, they were not also selling "Paramount" mountain bikes. |
(I would suggest asking on the Schwinn forum, but, as you noted, one has to sift through alot of irrelevant and irreverent trash to find the good bicycle information that is there. I am grateful that this forum has not become infected.)
RE:date code on head tube badge
posted by Art on 2/5/2001 at 4:33:52 PM
| I have a Paramount, RS 60, number on the bottom bracket is N3K0831....What does that mean John?|
RE:RE:date code on head tube badge
posted by Oscar on 2/6/2001 at 8:31:04 AM
| The frame is hanging from the ceiling at the used sporting goods shop. Next time I go to bother them, I'll borrow their ladder. Canti bosses front and rear. Tig welds, no lugs.|
Last Paramount MTBs
posted by Roger Huffmaster on 3/28/2001 at 5:39:00 PM
| Hi Oscar,|
Schwinn quit making Paramount MTBs after the 1994 model year when they "paused" in using the name. Instead of POG, it is probably PDG, which stood for Paramount Design Group.
For 1993 and 1994, only custom Paramount frames were made in the U.S. at Waterford, Wisconsin, the standard models (R30, RS30, R50, RS50, RS60, RS80, Team, etc.) were made in Japan, the basic frames at least. I have a 1993 model R30 which I had repaired/repainted at Waterford last year, and they thought that they may have painted and decaled some of the Japanese frames.
If you want the definitive history, you should go to:
http://www.waterfordbikes.com, they have a good history of Paramount bicycles there.
FOR SALE: Vintage Klein
posted by: casey saenger
on 1/28/2001 at 10:56:20 AM
| I have what I understand to be Klein's first production mountain bike and I was hoping to get some information about it and an idea of what it might be worth. Most of the bike is original to the best of my understanding. Brakes are the large motorcycle type, biopace front crank, xt compents, chris-king headset. The bike's paint seems in pretty good condition and the downtube says "mountain klein" instead of just klein. Thanks for any insight. |
Vintage Klein -- age
posted by John E on 2/2/2001 at 6:23:50 AM
| I do not know what it's worth, but it sounds like a late 1980s model. Berto's "The Birth of Dirt" leaves off around 1984 and does not mention Klein at all. If the rear brake is a U-brake hanging from the chainstays, then it's probably a 1986-88. (This fad, adopted from the old English rod brake roadsters, died a quick, merciful death. My 1988 Schwinn has it, whereas my 1992 Ross fortunately does not.)|
FOR SALE: SUPERCYCLE
posted by: MP
on 1/24/2001 at 10:59:26 AM
| Looking for information on a 70s era Canadian-made SuperCycle Trail A T 12 speed mountain bike. It comes equipped with Shimano RS components, 2002 steel double crown fork, Lee-Chi brake levers and early DH bar. Definitely old school variety. Thanks for any history on this. |
SUPERCYCLE = Canadian Tire Store Bike
posted by Paul on 1/25/2001 at 6:12:14 PM
| The SuperCycle brand bicycle are sold through Canadian Tire hardware stores in Canada. Canadian Tire is the largest hardware store chain in Canada. Being a Canadian familiar with all types of bicycles from this country I can tell you that although your bike may look like it is a 70's era bike it most probably is a bike from the 80's. Canadian Tire being a large chain is notoriously slow to figure out consumers and I know that they weren't exactly the first retailers offering mountain bikes. I know for a fact that they didn't get mountain style bikes until the mid 80's. I got my first Rocky Mountain Hammer in 1984 and seem to remember the mountain bike craze being picked up by large retailers and having bikes in stock after I got my Rocky Mountain. SuperCycles are typically of Taiwanese manufacture and it might say "Made in Canada" but that really means assembled in Canada by the Canadian Tire employee who put the bike together with a couple of crescent wrenches after he pulled it out of the box|
that came from Taiwan. Shimano RS components are not exactly old school by my book. I hope someone gave you this bike because by my estimate it has a collectable value of about zero. A lot of SuperCycles end up at garage sales or police auctions. If I would put a value on your bike I would say that it would probably fetch $20 or $30 in Canadian money. Divide that number in half if your talking about exchange to U.S. dollars. I would like to add that Canada does have a very rich history of bicyles and mountain bikes. Any early bikes by Rocky Mountain, Paul Brodie or Off Road Toad would certainly start to become collectable in the next few years. Typically the Canadian manufacturer's built smaller numbers of bikes for the smaller Canadian market and as such are less numerous than some of the production numbers assembled by American manufacturers. Canadian mountain bikes are typically distinguished by radically sloping top tubes, a design feature built into Canadian bikes to offer the greatest amount of stand over clearance for constant dismounts in the typical Canadian muck we ride in.
RE:SUPERCYCLE = Canadian Tire Store Bike
posted by MP on 1/26/2001 at 5:48:48 AM
| Thanks for that info. It was actually given to me, so I'm not out anything. What would you classify as a good collectible "Old School Mountain Bike"? |
I define "Old School Mountain Bike" as....
posted by Paul on 1/27/2001 at 12:58:20 AM
| Anything hand manufactured in the U.S. by any of the original mountain bike pioneers, i.e. Tom Ritchey, Joe Breeze, Gary Fisher, Chris Chance, Cunningham, any of the early guys that started and influenced this whole mountain bike thing in the first place. Personally my own little wish list would include early bikes by Wilderness Trail Bikes, Mountain Goat, Slinghshot, Mantis, Ibis, Manitou, Fat Chance, Yeti and Northstar. I'm always keeping my eye peeled for road bikes like the Bridgestone RB-1, Slimchance and a full Suntour Superbe Pro Gruppo still in the box. Remember when Mavic made a gruppo and for road and mountain and they had that electronic "ZAP" shifter system for road bikes. I'd like to get my hands on some of that stuff. I could see a real appreciation in the future for race bikes which can be historically traced to actually being ridden by Ned Overend, John Tomac, and any of the early day pro NORBA champions. Someday all the early titanium bikes will become collectable to freaks like myself who cherish the early stuff. Any prototype bikes which developed into production models I think would have historical significance in future. I'm sure a lot of people have different opinions of what will be collectable in the future. Anybody have anything to add? |
posted by Scidlid Pete on 1/28/2001 at 1:52:43 PM
| You coverd a lot of ground. I belive a good collector item would be the dinosuars that Gary, Charlie, Tom, and Joe's old Clunkers they broke into mountian biking back in the early 70's would be excellent collector items of this time. Joe's Schwinn Excelsior with a drum brake. Merin County where it all came togegther. The rest is history.|
FOR SALE: 1980's 24" Schwinn Frontier
posted by: Tom G
on 1/22/2001 at 1:18:47 PM
| all original in near mint condition, hardly ridden, perfect|
for the smaller person, pic available, $99
MISC: The bikes I have. What do you think?
posted by: Paul
on 1/18/2001 at 12:26:28 AM
| Hi everybody. I just stumbled across this great site and thought I'd try to get some impressions, from anyone that wants to offer, thoughts or appraisals on the bikes I have.|
1) 1989 Ritchey P-23, not original paint, crank, wheels or seatpost. Very nice condition though. This is my baby bike.
2) 1990 Gary Fisher Gemini tandem, all original.
3) 1993 or 94 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 with serial number 00003 on the frame. Original. I'm very curious about the serial number on this bike. Is it possible it's #3 off production line?
4) Bridgestone XO-1 purchased directly from Bridgestone after they went out of business. Original except for seatpost.
5) Two lovely Bridgestone posters also purchased directly from Bridgestone. One copy of each edition. Mounted and on display in my house.
6) Two Bridgestone catalogues I forget from which years, (I've got them all sealed away) very entertaining reading.
7) About 200 mountain bike magazines from the mid to late eighties. Mostly Mountain Bike Action.
I would love to hear from any Ritchey owners who own or have owned P-23's or any Ritchey handbuilts, ie. Commando.
Speaking of the Ritchey Commando I know of a frame (never used or ridden) in a bike shop in Kingston, Ontario. Its been hanging from the ceiling for the last 20 years or so. Camoflage paint and hand brazed by Tom Ritchey himself. Anybody ever seen one of these? Its a very cool bike.
Thanks for reading my post.
old Ritchey and Fisher stuff is cool
posted by John E on 1/18/2001 at 7:51:35 PM
| Most of your bikes are of at least historical interest, and I suspect they are pretty decent rides, as well.|
RE:old Ritchey and Fisher stuff is cool
posted by Oscar on 1/19/2001 at 8:07:23 PM
| I've stopped using camoflage paint. Lost too many bikes in the woods that way.|
RE:RE:old Ritchey and Fisher stuff is cool
posted by Wings on 1/21/2001 at 8:24:27 PM
| Oscar, Hmmm. Could you give me the location of those woods?|
FOR SALE: JAMIS DAKOTA
posted by: MC
on 1/16/2001 at 1:35:10 AM
| I have an older mountain bike that I would appreciate any information on. It is a black Jamis Dakota 18 speed with complete Suntour drivetrain including Suntour rollercam brakes and motorcycle-style brake levers. It was originally purchased in the 80s. I also have access to a yellow Jamis Cross Country from the same period. Are these worth anything? |
posted by John E on 1/18/2001 at 7:48:34 PM
| My 1988 Schwinn KOM-10 has a SunTour rollercam in front, those same long brake levers, and 21-speed SunTour XCD transmission. Your bike sounds like the same vintage, or possibly a bit earlier, because of the 6-speed freewheel. Do you know what type of frame tubing it has?|
posted by MC on 1/19/2001 at 5:48:34 PM
| Unmarked steel--too heavy for cromolly. |
MISC: Two Bridgestone MB-0's
posted by: Barry
on 1/12/2001 at 5:07:01 PM
| We have two MB-Zipps....we don't use them....should I sell them, what is a fair price range....or keep them for there collectors value? Thanks for the input. |
RE:MISC: Two Bridgestone MB-0's
posted by mikeq on 1/14/2001 at 8:04:21 AM
| Hmmm... MB0's are certainly collectable. Value depends on condition, condition, condition, and if components are original. I have an absolute mint condition, all original MB2 for which a guy offered me $750, which means it may be worth a lot more. I'd hang onto your MB0's unless you absolutely have to sell them. Price can only go up. And, if you have to sell them, and can't determine the value, I'd go the Ebay route.|
RE:MISC: Two Bridgestone MB-0's
posted by Art on 1/14/2001 at 6:26:15 PM
| The most sought after Bridgestone mt bikes are the XO and the XO-1. I would assume the MB-Os are the most valued of the mountain bike line, they were the top of the line, most expensive model of the company. Bridgestone has sort of a cult following. The bikes are no longer made and thus hold collector value. Grant Petersen(of Rivendell)'s involvement with Bridgestone also adds to their mystique(and value). Mike's idea of using E-bay is a good idea. I'd put a high reserve on them just to see what you'd get. Bicycle Trader also sells high end mt bikes and I might call Brad at American Cyclery in SF and ask him. I found a MB-6 for $15 dollars at a yard sale. |
RE:MISC: Two Bridgestone MB-0's
posted by dickshooter on 1/15/2001 at 5:25:47 PM
MB0's were the later, tig-welded, Tiwanese-made versions of earlier Japanese-made, lugged and brazed, MB1,2,3,4,5 and (maybe) 6's, and therefore have less collector value. Although quality made, they suffered from being too light for heavy duty mountain biking. As a result many of them suffered frame failures. Their value? Nowhere near that of the lugged models.